Overshadowing the news from the Balkans is the December 10 deadline that will determine the status of Kosovo. Early this year the United Nations envoy presented a plan that would grant Kosovo limited independence leading to statehood. Kosovo would continue under international supervision, and the ethnic Serbian minority would receive protection and a degree of autonomy. Serbia, backed by Russia, however, fiercely opposes the plan and has threatened reprisals that could destabilize the region.
The Kosovars have demanded independence from Serbia since the end of the war, and they are fed up waiting for others to give them what they believe is theirs. The buildup of emotion is reflected in the Kosovan media. Every television station has a ticking box in the corner of the screen showing the countdown to December 10 in days, hours, and minutes.
Once again, the fragile peace in the Balkans hangs in the balance. Should Kosovo be granted independence or declare it unilaterally, the Kosovars may enjoy only a brief euphoria before Serbia carries out its threats. Should Kosovo not get independence, the frustration and rage of the people will likely erupt in violence.
Against this potentially explosive background, our stalwart grantees continue to amaze me with their creativity, bravery, and determination. This past October I visited Kosovo, Serbia, and Croatia. Usually I spend most of my time meeting with grantees in the cities.
On this trip I wanted to visit two grantees located in rural areas, and I was finally ready to tackle driving on the country roads. The Balkan signage system is confusing to American drivers, so I set two rules for myself: no driving at night or in big cities. Nonetheless, I managed to get ticketed in the middle of nowhere by a Croatian cop. My violation? Driving without headlights in the middle of the day. He fined me 300 Kuna ($60) and ordered me to pay him on the spot. Returning my international driver’s license he said, “You’re from California. That’s in Canada, isn’t it?”
